Events
Gear
Research and Experiments
HRG in the Schools
Links |
Lullay, Litel, Grom : Baby Care in the Middle
Ages and Renaissance
by Christina Ford
c2001
Appendices
Appendix 1: Some Poems and Expressions |
Appendix 2: Extract from The French Garden, by Peter Erondelle
Appendix 3: Patterns for Yoke and Sleeve, and How to Use
Them | Appendix 4: Primary Examples
References
Back to Lully, Litel, Grom
Appendix
1: Some Poems and Expressions
Childhood (Scots; from Ratis Raving, c.
1450; Gray, p. 199)
With flouris for to jape and play.
With stickis and with spalis small
To byg up Chalmer, spens and hall;
To make a wycht horse of a wand,
Of broken bread a ship sailand;
A bunweed til a burly spear
And of a sedge a sword of weir,
A comely lady of a clout
And be richt busy thereabout
To dicht it fetisly with flouris
And luve the pepane paramouris.
And be sic wanton wyrkis weill
Thy daily dawark is done ilk deill.
[pepane = doll, p.372]
The Virgin's Song (English; British Museum MS Harl.
7322 f. 135b, c. 1375; Sisam p. 167)
Iesu, swete sone dere!
On porful bed list _ou here,
And _at me greue_ sore;
For _i cradle is ase a bere,
Oxe and asse be_ _i fere:
Weep ich mai _arfore.
Iesu, swete, beo noth wro_,
_ou ich nabbe clout ne clo_
_e on for to folde,
_e on to folde ne to wrappe,
For ich nabbe clout ne lappe;
Bote ley _ou _i fet to my pappe,
And wite _e from _e colde.
[I have no cloth to fold or wrap you in, so lay your feet on my breast
and shelter from the cold.]
The Childhood of James V (Scots; from 'The Complaynt
of Schir David Lindesay': Sir David Lindsay, 1490-1555; Gray, p. 206)
… My life full weill he could descrive:
How as ane chapman bearis his pack,
I bore thy grace upon my back,
And sometimes stridlingis on my neck,
Dansand with mony bend and beck.
The first sillabis that thou did mute
Was Pa, da Lyn: upon the lute
Then playit I twenty springis, perqueir,
Whilk was great piete for to hear.
Fra play thou let me never rest…
[mute = child's first attempts
at speech (p.371); Pa, da Lyn = 'play, da Lindesay' (p.372); spring
= lively tune (p.376); perqueir = by heart
(p.372)]
A
Select Glossary
Bearn – bairn, child - Ancrene Wisse (c.
1215). This version copied c. 1230; Corpus Christi College, Cambridge,
England,
MS 402 (Burrow and
Turville-Petre p.109).
Bib – Herrick – p.30, Opie
Bird [maiden/girl] – My Heart is Heich Above. Bannantyne MS; at
the latest 1568 but up to 2 centuries earlier (Gray, p.229). Alexander
Montgomerie
(c.1545-c.1611) Sweet Hairt, Rejoice in Mind (Gray, p.310). Gray, p.361.
Brouch [toy] – John of Trevisa's Translation of Higden's Polychronicon,
1387 (Sisam, p.148); see Appendix 4.x.
Childer [children] - Patience (NW Midlands of England, c. 1400). British
Library MS Cotton Nero A X (Burrow and Turville-Petre p.176).
Clout – nappy, diaper. WINDILAN, etc – winding sheet.
Deore deorling – dear darling – Ancrene
Wisse, see above. Darling also appears
in Wakefield Second Shepherds’ Pageant (Cawley, p.
107) though here the spelling has all been modernised.
Dug – nipple – William Shakespeare, Romeo and Juliet
Eskibah - ash-fool, child who plays in the hearth – Ancrene Wisse,
see above.
Hansel - gift to celebrate the beginning of something – William
Dunbar (c.1460-c.1530): A New Year's Gift to the King. (Gray, pp.130-131,
367).
Also spelt Handsel, Robert Herrick (1591-1674) – ‘A Child’s
Present’ – (Opie p.30)
Litel grom - groom, lad - John of Grimstone (Norfolk, 1372): National
Library of Scotland MS Advocates 18.7.21 (Burrow and Turville-Petre p.246).
May - maid, girl – 'Alysoun' and ' When _e nyghtegale singes'.
c. 1340 Brit Lib. MS Harl. 2253 (Burrow and Turville-Petre, pp.239-40
and
244-5).
Mop – moppet, little child – Wakefield
Second Shepherds’ Pageant
(Cawley, p. 107)
Pap – (1) breast – (2) – porridge
Pap cup – cup with spout for administering pap, usually to babies
who could not be suckled
reste _e a _rowe - rest a while - John of Grimstone (Norfolk, 1372).
See above.
softe slep and faste - sleep well and deeply - John of Grimstone (Norfolk,
1372). See above.
Sweeting – sweet [one] - 'Blow, Northerne Wynd'. 13th C. British
Library Harl. MS 225 (Dickins and Wilson, p. 119). Also see anon.
poem at beginning of this book.
Appendix 2: Extract from The French Garden, by Peter Erondelle
Peter
Erondelle was a Frenchman living in London during the reign of Elizabeth.
He wrote The French Garden36 as a text book for his language
students.
Lady: How now, how doth the child?
Nurse: Very well, thanks be to God, save that he hath cried somewhat
last night.
Lady: Hath he so? What should ail him? It may be he hath some tooth
growing. See if he is asleep.
Nurse: He is fully awake, Madam.
Lady: Undo his swaddling bands and give him his breakfast. Make his
pap. Take away that firebrand that smoketh, for it will taste of
smoke. Where
is his little spoon?
Wash him before me. Lift up his hairs. Is that not some dirt that
I see upon his forehead? What hath he upon his eyelids? Hath he not
a
pimple on his nose?
His little cheeks are wet. I believe you did leave him alone to cry and
weep. Pick his nostrils. Wipe his mouth and his lips. How many teeth
hath he? His
gums be sore.
What a fair neck he hath! Pull off his shirt. Thou art pretty and fat my
little darling. Wash his arm-pits. Oh, what an arm he hath! The palm of
his hand is
all water. Did he sweat? How he spreadeth his small fingers! His thumb
and little fingers are flea-bitten. Is there any fleas in your chamber?
He hath rubbed one foot against the other, for his ankle bone is raw. See
how he beateth with his heels. Do you kick, sirrah? You have not washed
the insides
nor the soles of his feet. Forget not to make clean his toes, the great
toe and all.
Now swaddle him again. Where is his little petticoat? Give him his coat
of taffeta, and his satin sleeves. Let him have his gathered apron. Now
put
him in his cradle and rock him till he sleep. But bring him to me first,
that I
may kiss him. God send thee good rest, my little boykin.
Appendix 3: Patterns
for Yoke and Sleeve, and How to Use Them
Here are some
basic ideas on how to use the patterns on the pull-out page, which include
about .5"/1cm seam allowance. The sleeve side of the pullout
has some sketches which may help in visualising some of these directions:
To
make the pattern for the back, draw on a sheet of paper
a rectangle about 9"/22cm wide. For the smaller size, it should
be about 22"/55cm
long; for the larger it should be 26"/66cm. These lengths include
at least 2"/5cm
for hems, which you will probably take up and let down as necessary.
Lay the back yoke block on the paper, top edge meeting top edge, and
side edge
marked
'centre front' meeting side edge. Trace/draw around the block, and then
draw a diagonal line from X to the bottom outside corner of the paper.
This forms
a trapezoidal skirt block When ready to cut
out fabric, lay centre back of pattern on fold to create single piece
of fabric for back of garment.
To make the pattern for the
front,
do exactly the same, using the front yoke block. If you want
a) a chemise: slit down the centre
front from the neck edge for about 4"/10cm
when cutting the fabric. Add a centre front slit from the hem upwards
for about 8"/20cm if desired. Unless your chosen period has decorative
bindings on chemises, it may be best to roll-stitch all edges on the
chemise to
keep layers of cloth to a minimum.
b) a v-necked tunic: mark the pattern
at centre front, 2-4"/5-10cm down
from neck edge. Draw a straight line from Y on the pattern to the point
you have marked. Measure around this, doubled, plus the back neck,
subtracting seam allowances, to ensure that the neck hole is large
enough for the
head
to fit through: it must be at least 16.5"/43cm for the newborn
size, and at least 18"/46cm for the 6-month-old (this is to allow
the head to fit through for a reasonable length of time). Lay on fold
as
described previously
to cut out fabric. Cut out a 2"/5cm facing using the neck patterns
if desired, or use bias binding, or turn raw edges to the outside and
stitch braid over them.
c) a round-necked tunic: when cutting
out of fabric, do not lay centre front on fold, but lay it on the
fabric allowing
an extra 2"/5cm for the centre
front vertical hems. If working with a fabric that is not identical on
both sides, make sure the two front pieces are mirror-images, not identical… Treat
raw edges as for v-necked tunic. Hem centre front edges after putting
the garment together, mitring edge of neck binding into the hem edge
if possible.
Then
stitch eyelets down each hem so the garment can be laced up.
To make the
pattern for the sleeves, mark out on your paper a rectangle 10"/25cm
(or, for the larger size, 11"/28cm) x the width of the sleeve head
block. This allows for 1"/2.5cm hem at the cuff. Lay the sleeve
block on it, top edge meeting top edge and draw around it. If you want
a)
a chemise: cut 2 sleeves exactly like this. Ease the sleeve head before
fitting into the armhole.
b) a tunic: measure and mark about
halfway down the straight edge (the seam which goes along the underneath
of the
arm) of the sleeve (hereafter
called
the elbow mark for want of a better word); measure and mark 1-1.5"/2.5-4cm
in from each end of the cuff edge (hereafter called the wrist mark).
Now draw a diagonal line from each elbow mark to the wrist mark in
its own
side to create
a slightly trapezoidal lower half of the sleeve. Using this pattern,
cut out 2 sleeves alike.
To make the pattern for the
bib, mark
out a piece of paper 8"/20cm square.
In the centre of one side, lay the round neck edge from the front yoke
block, beginning at Z, and trace/draw around it. After cutting out two
pieces of fabric
alike, decorate one if desired. Do not bead it or otherwise decorate
with things that could come off and choke the wearer. Make 2 rouleaux
about 1"/2.5cm
wide and 12"/30cm long; attach them to the shoulders formed on either
side of the neck edge on the decorated panel. At the other end of each
rouleau, fold up approx. 2"/5cm to make a loop and stitch into place.
Now make 2 more rouleaux, this time about 18"45cm long, and attach
at side waist edges. Neaten whole bib by backing with the other panel.
To use the
bib,
thread the waist ties through the loops of the shoulder straps: the straps
should
be vertical if the baby is large, and crossed over (before threading)
as for a pinafore apron if the baby is small. Put head through top and
arms
through
sides; tie at waist.
Appendix 4: Primary Examples
In this section I provide some – but by no
means all! – primary
references which illustrate certain points. This section may seem rather
long, but I hope, particularly in the case of the garb, to demonstrate the
startlingly
wide range of times and places which follow the same patterns and methods.
Where I have given a date marked b. (born) or d. (died), I am referring to
the creator of the work. Otherwise the date refers to the creation of the
work itself. I have tried, where possible, to give the provenance and/or
present
home of the work, as there are so many books on art available, and those
which you have may not be the same as mine. In case they are, I also provide
page
numbers. Pictures which are re-drawn and provided in this site are marked
with an asterisk..
i. Child wearing chemise:
11th Century Byzantine - Vladimir
Madonna. Formerly in the Cathedral of the Assumption, Vladimir, but now
in Historical Museum, Moscow;
Crosby, p. 483.
Chemise is round-necked and has wide sleeves, possibly also a deep hem of
a different fabric. 'Waistband' of same fabric, without shoulder straps.
12th
Cent. Crusader - Frescos in Church of the Resurrection ('The Crusader Church'),
Abu Ghosh, near Jerusalem, Israel. (pers. obs.)
13th Century English - MS Ee.3.59, Cambridge University Library, Cambridge,
England; McAleavy, p. 54. The chemise has a square neck.
15th Century Flemish – Dirk Bouts (c. 1464): The Last Supper, side panel
The Harvest of Manna in the Desert. St. Peter's Church, Leuven, Belgium; Ruwière,
p. 51. Child is a little older, perhaps two.
15th Century Russian - Andrei Rublyov (1370-1430): Our Lady of Vladimir.
Barry, et al. p. 52.
16th Century Flemish – Gerard David[s] (c. 1510): The Rest on the
Flight into Egypt. Fisher, p. 61.
- Gerard David[s] (c. 1500): Virgin with the Bowl of Pap. Royal Museums
for Fine Arts, Brussels, Belgium; Ruwière, p. 71.
- Gerard David[s] (1502-7): Baptism of Christ, left outer panel Virgin
with the Christ Child. City Museum Bruges, Belgium; Ruwière, p.
75. *
16th Century Spanish - Pedro Berruguete (c. 1500) Holy Family. Private
collection, Paredes de Nava (Spain?); Gudiol, p. 176.
Back to article
ii. Child wearing
tunic (tunics are long in all but one instance):
7th Century Visigothic
- Carving depicting the Sacrifice of Isaac, S. Pedro de la Nave, Zamora,
Spain. Gudiol, p. 29. The tunic is knee-length.
11th Century Byzantine - Ivory of Virgin and Child. Dumbarton Oaks Collection,
Washington DC, USA; Crosby, p. 214. Round-necked tunic; waistband. It
is difficult to tell from the photograph, but it is possible that the
child
wears a short
jacket. Child wears sandals.
11th Century Byzantine - Apse mosaic, Torcello Cathedral; Crosby p. 212.
Tunic is dark in colour, and has a round neck and wide chemise-like sleeves.
12th Century Spanish - Master of Maderuelo: fresco from apse of Sta.
Maria de Tahull, Lérida, Spain. Museum of Ancient Art, Barcelona,
Spain; Gudiol, p. 81. The child wears embroidered chemise, dalmatic and
double belt.
13th Century English - Matthew Paris (d. 1259): Virgin and Child. Gaunt,
p.10, no. 4.
- School of St. Albans, under guidance of Matthew Paris: Roundel of Virgin
and Child. Gaunt, p. 9, no. 1.
- Ascoli Piceno Cope, worked in England c. 1275-80, and given by Pope
Nicholas IV (d. 1292) to his birthplace, Ascoli, in 1288. Staniland,
p. 56, pl.
59. Round- necked tunic couched in gold thread with motifs all over in
red-brown,
and marking suggesting braid at neck edge.
13th Century Mosan - (from around Liège, Belgium) – Reliquary
of St. Remaclus, St. Sebastian's Church, Stavelot, Belgium; Guide-Michelin
Belgium/Luxembourg, p. 232. Appears to be tunic from the way the fabric
falls, but whole cut of garment is identical to conventional chemise.
14th Century English - The Presentation of Christ in the Temple. Bodleian
Library, Oxford, England. MS Laud. Misc 188, fol. 143v (c. 1380-1400);
BoH pl. 48. Tunic
is red. Nappy draped over Simeon's hands (convention in this period as
Simeon felt he was not worthy to touch Christ).
- Chasuble c.1330-1350, owned by Chichester-Constable family. Tunic couched
in pattern suggesting all-over motifs or brocade. Staniland, p. 14, pl.
10.
- Bologna Cope c. 1315-35, believed to have belonged to Pope Benedict
XI (r. 1303-4). Staniland, p. 11, pl. 9. Lower edge contains several
scenes
from the
infancy of Christ: Massacre of the Innocents, Presentation at the Temple
and Adoration of the Magi all show babies in blue, round-necked tunics.
Simeon has nappy over hands.
- Pienza Cope, c. 1315-1335. See i. Centre row of roundels includes Presentation
at the Temple (square-necked tunic) and Adoration of the Magi (knee-length,
round-necked tunic with embroidered or braided hem over chemise with
embroidered or braided hem, both hems about 2"/5 cm broad). All
garments pale apricot in colour.
14th Century Flemish - Wooden/polychrome statue of Virgin and Child (described
as early 14th C.; gothic) from Virga Jesse Church, Kapelstraat, Hasselt,
Belgium (pers. obs.). Tunic is particoloured, v-necked, apparently with
braid around
neck. One side of tunic is plain cream, the other brown and decorated
with gold quatrefoil outlines.
14th Century German - Altarcloth embroidered in white linen thread by
the nuns Sophia, Hadewigis and Lucardis, at the Convent of Altenburg
on the
Lahn; Staniland,
pp. 59 (pl. 62) and 37 (pl. 36). Tunic round-necked.
14th Century Spanish - Panel from tomb of Don Sando Saiz de Carrilla,
Mahamud, Burgos, Spain (c. 1300). Museum of Ancient Art, Barcelona, Spain;
Gudiol,
pp. 144-5.
- Golden Haggadah (prob. Barcelona, c. 1320), fols. 7r, 8v, 14v. Narkiss,
pp. 32, 35, 47.
15th Century French - [probably] Maître François, a Parisian
(c. 1475): Wharncliffe Hours. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne,
Australia, MS Felton 1 fol. 46v; BoH pl. 53; Tunic is light red-brown.
16th Century Flemish - Quinten Matsys (1509): Altarpiece of St. Anne.
Originally for St. Peter's Leuven, now in Royal Museum of Fine Arts in
Brussels, Belgium.
Ruwière, pp.79, 81. 2 tunics. One is v-necked, loose and grey;
the other's neck is not visible (bib covers it), but it is green and
laces all
the way
up the front.
16th Century Russian - Athos Madonna of Vladimir. Tunic is of very flimsy
material, with wide chemise-like sleeves, and coloured waistband with
shoulder straps
worn over it.
Back to article
iii. Child wearing 'bib'/waistband:
11th Century Byzantine - Ivory of
Virgin and Child. See ii.
11th Century Byzantine - Vladimir
Madonna. See i.
16th Century English - fol. 11v, MS 26, Waddesdon Manor, Aylesbury,
England. BoH pl. 21. Peasant child of toddler age wears apparently
plain bib.
16th Century Flemish - Quinten Matsys (1509): Altarpiece of St. Anne.
See ii. Bib is in a fine white fabric, decorated in red embroidery,
probably blackwork.
The painting also serves as empirical evidence for nappies: would you
let
a nappy-less infant near an illuminated book? *
16th Century Russian - Athos Madonna of Vladimir. See ii.
Back to article
iv. Child swaddled:
12th Century Spanish - Altar frontal, S. Saturnino
de Tabérnolas, Lérida,
Spain. Museum of Ancient Art, Barcelona, Spain; Gudiol, p.97.
13th Century French - Morgan Picture Bible, New York, Pierpont Morgan
Library, MS 638, fol. 7v; Narkiss; p. 56. Strapping beautifully clear.
13th Century Italian - Niccolò Pisano, Nativity carving on pulpit,
Baptistry, Pisa, Italy; Crosby, p. 273. Strapping very clear.
14th Century English - Bologna Cope c. 1315-35. See ii. Lower edge contains
several scenes from the infancy of Christ: Birth of Christ (and, possibly,
Flight into Egypt) shows swaddled baby in blue (though all children are
in blue in this work).
14th Century French - Master of the Livre du Sacre de Charles V: Edith
E Rosenwald Hours. Library of Congress, Washington DC, USA, fol. 111v;
BoH
pl. 52. Difficult
to see clearly.
- Bible Historiée, Paris. New York, Public Library Spencer MS
22, fol. 39v; Narkiss, p. 58.
14th Century Italian – Ambrogio Lorenzetti (1342): Presentation in the
Temple. Uffizi Gallery, Florence; Fisher, p. 66. Infant, wearing tunic, is
held by Simeon, who has a nappy over his hands, while Mary stands by with a
cloth, presumably to re-swaddle when the Presentation is over. Cloth is about
3'x4' (90cm x 120 cm) and has about 6" (15cm) of broad coloured
bands (woven?) at each short edge.
14th Century Spanish - Triptych from Monastery of Piedra, Saragossa,
Spain (c. 1390). Royal Academy of History, Madrid, Spain; Gudiol, p.
195.
- Retable given to Monastery of Quejana, Alava, Spain by Pedro López
de Ayala in 1396. Art Institute of Chicago; Gudiol, p. 149. One arm of
child uncovered.
- Golden Haggadah (prob. Barcelona, c. 1320). See v. Fols. 9r, 10v, 11r,
14v, 15r; Narkiss, pp. 36, 39, 40, 47, 48. *
15th Century Spanish - Bernardo Martorell: Nativity. Lippmann Collection,
Berlin, Germany; Gudiol, p. 160.
Back to article
v. Naked child with clout in picture:
14th Century English - Pienza Cope,
c. 1315-1335. Given to Pienza Cathedral in 1462 by Pope Pius II (d. 1464).
Said to have been brought to Italy
and presented to the Pope by Thomas Palæologus, Despot of the Morea;
Staniland, pp. 2 and 3. Centre row of roundels includes Birth of Christ,
showing baby wrapped
in pale apricot-coloured cloth with embroidered or braided hem, possibly
about 2"/5 cm wide, and Presentation at the Temple, where Simeon
has a similar, though white, clout over his hands.
15th Century Austrian - Schottenaltar (c. 1470), in Schottenstift, Vienna,
Austria. Guide-Michelin Vienna p. 84. Clout is wrapped around baby's
shoulders; head left uncovered.
15th Century Flemish - Master of the Dresden Hours: Adoration of the
Magi. British Library, London, England Add. MS 17280 fol. 197v; BoH pl.
47.
- Jan van Eyck (b. c. 1390): Madonna and Chancellor Rolin. Musées
Nationaux Paris; Speed 1989, p. 73.
- Robert Campin (c. 1430): Virgin and Child before a Firescreen. National
Gallery, London, England. Fisher, p. 94.
- Jan van Eyck (1436): Virgin with Canon van der Paele. Originally for
St. Donatianus' Cathedral in Bruges, and now in City Museum of Bruges;
Ruwière,
p. 27.
- Hugo van der Goes (late 15th C.): Virgin and Christ Child. Museum of
Ancient Art, Brussels, Belgium; Ruwière, p. 59; Guide-Michelin
Belgium p. 29. Clout evidently gauze.
- Master of Mary of Burgundy (c. 1485): Hours of Engelbert of Nassau.
BoH pl. 49; Bodleian Library, Oxford, England MS Douce 219-20 fol. 152v.
- Hans Memling (b. c. 1435): Virgin and Child with Saints and Donors.
National Gallery, United Kingdom; Fox (September).
15th Century Italian - Domenico di Bartolo (1400-1447): fresco, Hospital
Santa Maria della Scala, Siena, Italy; Fox (May).
– Piero della Francesca (c. 1470): the Montefeltro Altarpiece. Pinacoteca
Brera, Milan, Italy; Fisher, p. 103.
15th Century Spanish - Fernando Gallego (c. 1480): Epiphany. Museum of Art,
Toledo, Spain; Gudiol, p. 169. Clout is gauze.
16th Century Austrian - Anon. (1503) Birth of Mary. Grafenegg Castle
Chapel, Austria; Fox (May). Child carried on clout; one corner tucked
over groin.*
16th Century Flemish - Early 16th C MS from Antwerp. Österreichische
Nationalbibliothek, Vienna, Austria, Cod. 1859 fol. 122. BoH pl. 51.
Child is wrapped loosely in
clout.
–
Jan Gossart called Mabuse (c. 1516). Virgin and Christ Child. Royal Museums
for Fine Arts. Brussels, Belgium; Ruwière, p. 83.
- Bernard van Orley (1515-18): Tapestry depicting The Legend of Notre-Dame-du-Sablon,
Royal Museums of History and Art, Brussels, Belgium; Guide-Michelin Belgium,
p. 31. The tapestry shows a statue (14th C.?) of Mary holding the Christ
Child wrapped loosely in a clout.
16th Century French - Horae Beate Marie Virginis, 1508, by Jean Babier,
printer of the University of Paris for Nicholas Vivien, Bookseller of
Notre Dame.
Rare Books Collection, State Library of Victoria, Australia; Greetings
card, St.
Paul's Anglican Cathedral, Melbourne, Australia.
16th Century Spanish – Juan de Borgoña: decoration in Chapter
House, Cathedral of Toledo (1509-1511). Gudiol, p. 231. clout is already
partially folded in the technique described earlier in this book.
vi. Child
wearing clout:
16th Century German - Marx Reichlich (1511): Birth of the Virgin. Fox
(May); Alte Pinakothek, Munich, Germany.*
Back to article
vii. clout basket:
Back
to article
16th Century Flemish – Gerard Davids (c.
1510): The Rest on the Flight into Egypt. Fisher, p. 61. The basket
in question
looks like fairly
fine
willow, or perhaps stitched coils of grass, in the shape of an oval hatbox.
viii. Breastfeeding:
11th Century Spanish - Pila de Játiva, marble
basin. Museo de Almudin, Játiva, Spain; Dodds, p. 262.
15th Century Flemish – Robert Campin (c. 1430): Virgin and Child
before a Firescreen. National Gallery, London, England; Fisher, p. 94.
Chemise and
gown both open down front; breast fully exposed.
15th Century French – Jean Fouquet (c. 1450): Madonna and Child with
Angels, right wing of Melun Diptych (now divided). Musée Royal
des Beaux-Arts, Antwerp, Belgium; Fisher, p. 51. Bodice unlaces down
front, breast
exposed
by pulling down chemise.
16th Century Flemish – from Antwerp, early 16th C. Rest on the Flight
to Egypt. Österreichische Nationalbibliothek, Vienna, Austria, Cod.
1859, fol. 122; BoH pl. 51. Gown opens down front, chemise has slits,
and Mary has
also placed another cloth around her shoulders to tuck into the decolletage.
Note: 'Maternity clothing during the Renaissance must have been simply
a matter of letting out and, finally, opening up seams' (Fisher, p. 47).
Some
paintings
of the Madonna del Parto, such as that by Piero della Francesca (c.1460),
at Sta. Maria a Nomentana, Monterchi, Italy, show Mary in unlaced gowns,
at a
late stage of the pregnancy
Back
to article
ix. Travelling:
15th Cent. German/Italian - Ashkenazi Haggadah (so called
because the illuminator, Joel ben Simeon Feibusch, was born and trained
in Germany
but lived in
Italy), c. 1460-75. British Library MS Add. 14762, fol. 14v; Shire, p.
23. Panniers
on donkey.*
15th Century German - woodcut entitled 'Travelling Folk'; Ohler, p. 241.
Sadly, he does not give the provenance.
16th Century Italian - Cesare Vecellio, pl. 294: Christian woman of the
[Scandinavian] northern regions bringing her children to a remote church
for baptism; p.
91. Basket is perhaps 18"/45cm long and roughly semi-circular in
cross-section. It is attached by two shoulder straps, like a rucksack.
Vecellio is not always
reliable (to put it mildly) once he leaves Italy, but this looks plausible.
Back to article
x.
Cradle:
14th Century English – John of Trevisa's (1387) Translation
of Higden's Polychronicon, chap. 59, 'Also gentil men children bu_ ytau_t
for to speke
Freynsch fram tyme _at a bu_ yrokked in here cradel, and conne_ speke
and playe wi_ a child hys brouch…'. Sisam, p. 148.
14th Century Italian – Giovanni Boccaccio (1313-1375): Decameron,
9th day, novel 6.
15th Century French - Jehan Bouteiller (1471), La Somme Rural. Ms. Fr.
202, fol. 9. Bibliothèque National, Paris, France; Fox (June).
16th Century English/French - Erondelle (Appendix 2)
16th Century German – Marx Reichlich (1511): Birth of the Virgin.
See ii.
16th Century Spanish – Juan de Borgoña (1509-11). See v.
*
Back to article
xi. Toys:
8th Century Arabic - Eretz Israel Museum, Tel Aviv,
Israel. Redrawn for this study from a photograph by CF. *
16th Century Flemish - Marten de Vos (1577): Portrait of Antonius Anselmo,
his wife Johanna Hooftmans and their children Gilles and Johanna. Royal
Museums for Fine Arts, Brussels, Belgium; Ruwière p. 117. Gilt
rattle with coral at tip. Entirely different from anything in the preceding
period, as
is the
garb.
Back to article
xii. Birth Plate:
Note - There appear to be two kinds of birth
plate used in our period – one
usually of metal and perhaps an inch or two deep, which looks much like the
offertory plates used in some churches, and which was apparently used for
serving traditional post-partum foods to the new mother; the other a flat
object painted
with a birth scene, and apparently (Baggio, p. 121) given during the 15th
and 16th centuries by the new mother after a birth, presumably to those who
assisted
at it (15th Cent., School of Domenico di Bartolo: Birth plate showing Birth
of St. John the Baptist, Ca' d'Oro, Venice; Baggio, p. 121). All other examples
named here are of the first type.
16th Century Austrian – Anon. (1503).
Birth of Mary. See v.
16th Century German – Marx Reichlich (1511). See vi.
16th Century Spanish – Juan de Borgoña (1509-11). See v.
xiii.
Child wearing coral:
15th Century Italian – Piero della Francesca
(c. 1470). See v.
16th Century Austrian - Anon (1503), Birth of Mary. See v.
References
Abelard, P. 1136. Historia Calamitatum. In The
Letters of Abelard and Heloise (tr. and ed. B. Radice 1974). Penguin,
Harmondsworth,
England.
Baggio, E. 1961. Woman and manners. In Italy's
Book of Days: Society in the Renaissance (10th Year), eds. A.V. Giardini
and E. Baggio, tr.
R. Chase and
A. Suchenkow von Krinkin. Italian State Tourist Department, Rome, Italy.
Barry,
G., Bronowski, J., Fisher, J. and J. Huxley. 1965. The Arts: Man's Creative
Imagination. Doubleday, New York, USA.
Bernard, B. 1988. The Bible
and its Painters. Macdonald, London, England
and Portland House, XXX
Boccaccio, G. (1313-1375) The Decameron (tr. J.M.
Rigg 1930). Dent, London,
England and Dutton, New York, USA.
Books of Hours. 1996. Phaidon, London,
England. Note: as there appears
to be no author acknowledged in this text, I have referred to it as BoH throughout
my work.
Burrow, J.A. and T. Turville-Petre. 1996. A Book
of Middle English (2nd edn.) Blackwell, Oxford, England.
Burton, E. 1973. The Elizabethans at Home. Arrow,
London, England.
Cawley,
A.C.(ed.) 1956. Everyman and Medieval Miracle Plays. Dent, London, England.
Crosby, S.McK. 1959. Helen Gardner's Art Through
the Ages. Harcourt, Brace and World, New York, USA.
Davis, N. (ed.) 1983. The Paston Letters. World's
Classics Series, Oxford University Press, Oxford, England.
Deary, T. 1996. Horrible Histories: The
Measly Middle Ages. Scholastic, London,
England.
Dickins, B. and R.M. Wilson (eds.). 1951. Early
Middle English Texts. Bowes and Bowes, Cambridge, England.
Dodds, J.D. 1992. Al Andalus: the Art of Islamic
Spain. Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA. Distributed by Abrams,
New York, USA.
Eisenberg, A.,
Murkoff, H.E. and S.E. Hathaway. 1991. What to Expect the First Year. Angus
and Robertson, Sydney, Australia. First publ. by Workman,
USA.
1989.
Fischgrund, C. (ed.). 1998. The Illuminated Haggadah.
Steimatzky, Bnei Brak, Israel (under the auspices of Frances Lincoln,
London, England).
Fisher, S.
1995. The Square Halo and Other Mysteries of Western Art: Images and the
Stories that Inspired Them. Abrams, New York, USA.
Fox, S. 2000. The
Medieval Woman: an Illuminated Calendar 2001. Workman, New York, USA (simultaneously
with Thomas Allen in Canada).
Gaunt, W. 1964.
A Concise History of English Painting. Thames and Hudson,
London, England.
Gerber, J.S. 1997. 'My heart is in the east…' in The
Illustrated History of the Jewish People, ed. N. de Lange. Aurum, London,
England (simultaneously
with Key Porter in Canada, and Harcourt Brace in USA).
Gijsen, M. 1938 (2nd
edn.). Breviarium der Vlaamsche Lyriek. Die Poorte, Antwerp, Belgium.
Gray, M.M. (ed.) 1935. Scottish Poetry from Barbour
to James VI. Dent, London, England.
Gudiol, J. 1964. The Arts of Spain. Thames and
Hudson, London, England.
Guide
Michelin. 1997. Green (Tourist) Guide: Belgium, Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.
Michelin Tyre PLC, Tourism Dept., Watford, England.
Guide Michelin. 2000.
Green (Tourist) Guide: Vienna. Michelin Tyre PLC, Tourism Dept., Watford,
England.
Kluge, F. 1891. An Etymological Dictionary of the
German Language. (tr. J.F. Davis) Bell, London, England.
McAleavy, T. 1991. Medieval Britain: Conquest,
Power and People. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, England.
McIntyre, A. 1992. Herbs for Common
Ailments. Angus and Robertson (under the auspices of HarperCollins), Sydney,
Australia.
Narkiss, B. 1997. The Golden
Haggadah. The British Library, London, England.
Noot,
Thomas van der. Een Notabel Boecxken van Cokeryen. Published c. 1514 in
Brussels, Belgium, and fac simile in 1994 by de KAN, Amsterdam, the
Netherlands.
Translation of entire text into English by C. Ford 2001.
Ohler, N. 1997.
The Medieval Traveller (tr. C. Hillier). Boydell, Woodbridge. Originally
published (1986) as Reisen im Mittelalter, by Artemis.
Opie, I.
and P. 1973. The Oxford Book of Children’s Verse. Oxford University
Press, Oxford, England.
Romain, E. and S. Hawkey. 1996. Herbal Remedies
in Pots: Growing and Making Herbal Remedies for Common Ailments. Dorling
Kindersley,
London, England.
Ruwière,
J. de la. 1956. De Vlaamse Schilderkunst in de Xve en XVIe Eeuw (Flemish
Painting in the XVth and XVIth centuries). Artis, Brussels,
Belgium.
Sisam, K. (ed.) 1921 (this corrected version 1975).
Fourteenth Century Verse and Prose. Oxford University Press, Oxford,
England.
Speed, P. and M. 1987.
The Elizabethan Age: Book 1, The Queen, Nobles and Gentry. History Source
Books Series. Oxford University Press, Oxford, England.
Speed,
P. and M. 1989. The Middle Ages: Book 4, England and France. History
Source Books Series. Oxford University Press, Oxford, England.
Stammers, K.
1997. What They Never Tell You. Random House, Sydney, Australia.
Staniland,
K. 1991. Medieval Craftsmen: Embroiderers. British Museum Press, London,
England.
Vecellio, C. 1598. Habiti antichi, et moderni tutto
il Mondo. Publ. by Dover, New York, USA (1977) as Vecellio's Renaissance
Costume Book.
With heartfelt thanks to Myfanwy verch Traehearn
(Vera Vukovi_), of Adamastor, for redrawing the photographs of Isabella
van Tets modelling
some of the garb. All other artwork (if you can call it that), including
redrawing from period sources where noted, by Christina Ford. Much
gratitude is due also to Marared verch Radnor (Margaret Clancy) and Sasha
Vladimir Obilin (Alex Kharnam), both of Stormhold, for their help and
encouragement.
|